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R Brown
United States
Приєднався 17 гру 2011
Welcome to my channel. I'll be documenting my progress at becoming less dependent on "the grid". Includes projects in solar power and heating, LED lighting, vampire load reduction, cable cutting and other DIY projects that come up. I also explore the local area and GeoCache by bicycle.
I've learned a lot about this over the years from other UA-cam videos and wanted to give back to the community. Many of these projects are "works in progress", so I may start out showing what I am doing at the present time, but as time allows, I'll try to document what I already have set up. If there's anything you want to see more details on, please leave a comment below the related video.
I've learned a lot about this over the years from other UA-cam videos and wanted to give back to the community. Many of these projects are "works in progress", so I may start out showing what I am doing at the present time, but as time allows, I'll try to document what I already have set up. If there's anything you want to see more details on, please leave a comment below the related video.
Toyota 4Runner: Replacement Deck Light Lens
Making a replacement lens for the factory deck light in my 1985 Toyota 4Runner.
With the new plywood bed sides and 3D printed housing placing the deck light in a better location, it'll be getting used a lot more. However, the 39 year old plastic lens is badly damaged by decades of UV exposure.
Timeline:
0:10 Introduction
3:45 OpenSCAD
3D Print Files:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6699984
I used OpenSCAD to design a 3D printed replacement:
openscad.org/
Use a clear PETG filament, colored if desired:
amzn.to/3Y8ToUL
LED festoon bulbs to replace the OEM incandescent bulb:
m4products.com/211-festoon-led-lamp/?aff=40
I've not found any colored festoon LEDs, so the colored, clear filament can be used to change the color of the lamp.
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, like, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
With the new plywood bed sides and 3D printed housing placing the deck light in a better location, it'll be getting used a lot more. However, the 39 year old plastic lens is badly damaged by decades of UV exposure.
Timeline:
0:10 Introduction
3:45 OpenSCAD
3D Print Files:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6699984
I used OpenSCAD to design a 3D printed replacement:
openscad.org/
Use a clear PETG filament, colored if desired:
amzn.to/3Y8ToUL
LED festoon bulbs to replace the OEM incandescent bulb:
m4products.com/211-festoon-led-lamp/?aff=40
I've not found any colored festoon LEDs, so the colored, clear filament can be used to change the color of the lamp.
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, like, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
Переглядів: 30
Відео
Home Automation: SunRise / SunSet Issue
Переглядів 93День тому
I encountered an interesting issue in late June with an automation that relied on SunRise / SunSet information to trigger a timer or schedule. Apparently, this functionality depends upon a working Internet connection. My ISP (Comcast) had an outage that started about 4:20AM and lasted until 2:45PM. As such, the SunRise event didn't start my DayTime schedule at the expected and it did not trigge...
1st Generation 4Runner: Tailgate Carpet Panel
Переглядів 4514 днів тому
Refreshing the tailgate carpet panel in my 1985 Toyota 4Runner. Not sure if this is an SR5 feature, but this carpeted panel sits over the rear window access opening in the tailgate. It's attached with plastic screw inserts that fit into square holes in the tailgate sheet metal. Those inserts used to have barbs that held them in place, but those broke off years ago, leaving the inserts loose. I ...
Escape from Stevens Creek Canyon?
Переглядів 13728 днів тому
Ever since I first rode up into Stevens Creek canyon over 12 years ago, I wondered if it was possible to hike out of the canyon and up onto the towering Montebello Ridge. It took a few years of exploring a faint trail, that I discovered by accident, as well as awesome hill shade and aerial imagery maps I created, to put together a plan that just might work. The only way to find out is to ride t...
1st Generation Toyota 4Runner, Plywood Bed Side Panels, Part 2
Переглядів 106Місяць тому
1st generation Toyota 4Runner, making replacement bed side panels, adding the original access hatch and improving the deck light switch setup. The original factory plastic side panels are showing signs of nearly 40 years of use and abuse. I had originally traced the inside opening for the access hatches from the plastic panel. However, the plastic had a molded recess for the hatch to fit into. ...
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 6
Переглядів 76Місяць тому
Trying to understand how and why these old trails and roads were built where they were. To do that, I'm trying to find a route up an area of the north side of the canyon where I've yet to find any old trails or roads. This is a return visit to this small side canyon, just past the first creek crossing, trying to push the route farther up. This is a more north facing ridge. According to the aeri...
Montebello Ridge Road: Quest for Grass
Переглядів 632 місяці тому
Taking another shot at this old road that shows up on the 1895 USGS historical top map, this time armed with both hill shade and aerial imagery maps! This was my 4th time on this old road, but only the 3rd time I made it up to the bench area. Using the aerial imagery made it much easier to navigate to and find the large grassy meadow up on the side of the ridge. Even when I was perhaps 10 ft. f...
Solving the Mystery of the Wooden Construction
Переглядів 5552 місяці тому
On last week's loop hike, I stumbled across some mysterious wooden construction, in the middle of nowhere, just before I reconnected with my earlier GPS track. I wanted to get back up to that ridge and see if I could figure out what this was. I also wanted to try and put my recently acquired knowledge of route finding to use, and try to find an easier way up to that ridge. All my earlier routes...
Another Awesome Off-Trail Loop Hike in the Santa Cruz Mtns.
Переглядів 1052 місяці тому
Last year, I wondered if it was possible to link up a loop hike going down what I call the Slide Trail from the junction of Charcoal and Table Mtn. roads to the Canyon Trail. On this trip, I wanted to "close the loop" between my tracks down from the top of the ridge and up the canyon from below. There was about 1/4 mile or 400m between those 2 points. I did find some suspicious looking areas on...
Slide Trail Loop: Scouting Trip #2
Переглядів 532 місяці тому
Last year, I wondered if it was possible to link up a loop hike going down what I call the Slide Trail from the junction of Charcoal and Table Mtn. roads to the Canyon Trail. On this trip, I wanted to push my GPS track on the "Slide Trail" farther up the canyon to the base of the ridge that drops down from where I stopped the week before. Also it's nice to be able to put some of the knowledge g...
Slide Trail Loop: Scouting Trip #1
Переглядів 432 місяці тому
Last year, I wondered if it was possible to link up a loop hike going down what I call the Slide Trail from the junction of Charcoal and Table Mtn. roads to the Canyon Trail. I had taken a brief look last spring at the top of the canyon for signs of the old trail, but didn't really see anything obvious. I wanted to take a 2nd look for a possible route down the main ridge that drops down to the ...
Stevens Creek Reservoir spillway Apr. 2024
Переглядів 863 місяці тому
Found a better viewpoint for the spillway. This was just before the reservoir level dropped below the spillway level. This is the 2nd year in a row the spillway has been used. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stevens_Creek_Reservoir
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 5
Переглядів 763 місяці тому
Trying to find an old road or trail that ran up the side of the main canyon close to where the old pond dam was built along Stevens Canyon Rd. Not sure what this road was built for, but it showed up as a "Jeep Trail" on the 1961 USGS topo map and it seems to be present on the 1982 topo map, although unlabeled. This road appears to ascend up an old land slide scar and seems to have mostly slid a...
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 4
Переглядів 1273 місяці тому
Trying to find an old road or trail that ran up the stream canyon where the old pond dam was built along Stevens Canyon Rd. Not sure what this road was built for, but it was likely associated with the old structures visible on the 1948 historical topo map. It took 2 trips to locate this road. It's very faint on the hill shade map and even fainter on the ground. I did manage to find a short stre...
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 5
Переглядів 563 місяці тому
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 5
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 4
Переглядів 293 місяці тому
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 4
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 3
Переглядів 294 місяці тому
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 3
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 2
Переглядів 314 місяці тому
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 2
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 1
Переглядів 2704 місяці тому
AC Diversion Load: Added Capacity, Part 1
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 3
Переглядів 444 місяці тому
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 3
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 2
Переглядів 724 місяці тому
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 2
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 1
Переглядів 1184 місяці тому
Understanding Old Trails in Stevens Creek Canyon, Part 1
Creek level view of the pond dam outflow waterfall
Переглядів 384 місяці тому
Creek level view of the pond dam outflow waterfall
3D Printed TPU Shock Absorber Bushings: CAD files
Переглядів 974 місяці тому
3D Printed TPU Shock Absorber Bushings: CAD files
Custom Sleeves for TPU Shock Absorber Bushings
Переглядів 1525 місяців тому
Custom Sleeves for TPU Shock Absorber Bushings
3D Printed (TPU) Shock Bushings for the 4Runner
Переглядів 2295 місяців тому
3D Printed (TPU) Shock Bushings for the 4Runner
Trying out a Poly Urethane (TPU) Shift Knob
Переглядів 895 місяців тому
Trying out a Poly Urethane (TPU) Shift Knob
Table Mountain - Tectonic Block, Taking Another Look
Переглядів 7525 місяців тому
Table Mountain - Tectonic Block, Taking Another Look
Table Mountain - Tectonic Block, the Other Half
Переглядів 4325 місяців тому
Table Mountain - Tectonic Block, the Other Half
We've now made the 3D CAD files for the ball joint spacers available for personal use, if interested: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/toyota-4wd-ifs-ball-joint-spacers
We've now made the 3D CAD files for these anchors available for personal use, if interested: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/d-ring-shackle-mount-4crawler
We've now made the 3D CAD files for these anchors available for personal use:, if interested cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/d-ring-shackle-mount-4crawler
Thanks for the very informative video. I have had my breville for 6 years with no issues. My hot water and steam wand is working but no water through the group head just dumping straight to purge drip tray. I presume I have a bad solinoid. A common water leak I found is the elbow connector which I have replaced. Thank you
Great video, I love that you make wooden bedsides for your 4Runner. I did the same to my old 85 4Runner. I even painted mine that same brown color. Have a great day!
Great minds think alike! Yes, that old factory plastic is pretty flimsy.
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help. Why the mfg. didn't put any wheels on this freezer is beyond me. Most seem to have 2 wheels in back and then adjustable feet in front.
Flashing filter size, I made sure the hopper was seated and locked made sure the upper burr was seated and locked,took hooper off and pushed the safety button in , nothing. How can I test the safety switch on the hopper?
I think the interlock switch must be inside one of the 2 holes inside the grinder opening. Those are the holes that the 2 pins that pop out of the hopper when the knob is turned to lock it in place. Perhaps there's some coffee grounds in those holes or something that's preventing the pins from pushing all the way out. My guess is it would be the hole to the back of the machine that has the switch, might be able to see the wires from that below the top cover when it's removed.
If you see flashing Filter Size: Single/Double lights, check out 6:40 in the video. Your bean hopper isn't inserted properly.
Got a breville 870 from my son , the filter size keeps flashing back and forth ,grinder won't turn on. Did a deep clean on the grinder. Still flashing
Bean hopper not seated correctly: ua-cam.com/video/uo9G6g6tZ_w/v-deo.html
Its a drive board
perfect and detail
You’re a genius!
I was in my machine trying to fix a leak then accidentally knocked this and messed it up. I disassembled (the gears) and tried to reassemble it but I don’t see it moving the burr like in this video, despite the gear turning around the center black piece. Do you have any videos where you take this piece apart and reassemble?
I've never torn mine apart more than in this video. I did disassemble and clean the burrs in the grinder in this video: ua-cam.com/video/0ZDii493IPY/v-deo.htmlsi=GWmTPuYVNv9TPldy You might want to contact Breville support and ask if they have any detailed assembly information on that part. And a replacement grinder assembly is also available if you can't get yours working.
@@The4Crawlerwow, thank you so much for such a fast response. I’ll reach out to Breville and see what they think!
Glad i found this video. Just ordered one. Never heard of you guys before!
Thanks for the order, should have that part in the mail in the morning.
Thank you for the videos. I just finished replacing the solenoid block on my Breville Barista Express BE870XL/A. But not everything is working as expected. The new solenoid block is on, the water line connected to the back panel and the water reservoir hung on the back. I've not replaced the top or all the screws to button it all up. When powered up the Filter Size single/double lights are alternating flashing. The single and double button servings are now producing water out of the group head which it was not before which is why I replaced the solenoid. The problem I have is that the hot water / steam control is outputting to the group head instead of the hot water spout / steam wand. So no water is being directed up to the hot water/steam output. What do you think? Bad connections? blocked hose? bad new solenoid? All suggestions welcome.
Check out the pinned comment on this video: ua-cam.com/video/9lMw6ooiqPI/v-deo.htmlsi=7GtVN89WGO3Xi0lZ It has lots of troubleshooting information. Follow where the water is going and see at what point it goes the wrong way and that'll help pinpoint the source of the issue. Could be the grinder is not fully seated as that can cause the lights to blink. As far as water coming out the wrong place, perhaps the water tubes are hooked up incorrectly or the solenoid wires have been swapped.
Used my grainfather brew system to pump citic acid.
Comment below if you've ever run into anything like this with your home automation system. This is the first time I've noticed this sort of issue. I've had many internet outages (cough, Comcast, cough) in the past but this is the first one I've noticed that spanned either sunrise or sunset times. The fail safe logic I have now is working well and seems to handle this short term internet outage with my testing. Although I'm looking into a more robust fix that should handle outages of longer duration. The neat thing is you can write up that code, add it to the other condition expressions and the PLEG environment will execute that code and you can see the state changes and time stamps. It takes some time to work through all the scenarios that might happen and then implement fixes for all those in one line of code.
Have you used it to sand hardwood floors?
Not yet, but I intend to give that a try in the future as I have some hardwood floors that need to be refinished.
Mine (4040) is always off half a pound and will not calibrate. I replaced all three capacitors and turned that variable resistor (?) every which way. When I attempt to calibrate I get to the C100 prompt, add 100lbs, press zero, and then rather that say "ok", calibrate and turn off, mine just prompts c200 like it now wants 200 lbs, which I don't have. It's about to go in the trash. POS.
I've never attempted to calibrate my scales nor could I find any documentation on how to do that. I did link a video in the description that discusses the calibration procedure, maybe the creator of that video has more information. One option is to record the weight error and then just add or subtract that from the displayed weight.
So.....for a main-home panel to check the incoming power from an emergency generator feeding an interlock.... ( via it's own double-pole breaker)......if you use 2 meters ( one for each 120V "leg").....it appears that Current transformer (CT) will be placed around the lead to one incoming leg of the dual breaker...and the "return" like-kind wire to ground ( or ground/neutral on the first main panel.). The 2 wires to the CT simply conect the CT collar to the meter. Correct?
Several methods to do that. 2 meters with a CT on each hot leg, Line1 and Line2 and meters connected from Line1 or 2 to Neutral would show all the data. One meter with CT on one leg and measuring Line1 - Line2 is another way, shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/LhR-Z6lBeZw/v-deo.htmlsi=GcnDpCgEQt4FO1dg This assumes current in Line1 and Line2 are close to the same. Or you can run Line1 and Line2 through the CT (swap the direction of one of the wires) and then the current display will show the sum of the 2 currents (amps1 + amps2) and then connect the voltage terminals between Line1 or Line2 and Neutral (it will read 120V or half of 240). And half the voltage times twice the current - actual watts.
@@The4Crawler ...prefer individual meters for each of the 120V legs....so 2 meters. Since the "power" connection for the meters will be from some dedicated breaker for each "leg"..I would think of using one-breaker per meter. To assure the reading integrity of each meter....we need to be careful where the breaker picks up power....to match the same 120V "leg" where the CT measures the 120V leg into one of the double-pole breakers used as "main" from genset. Although it would function, we don't want to mix these up id using 2 meters is to monitor the health of each incoming 120V power leg. Thanks for the tip.
@@The4Crawler ..another question. What is the "desired" ( technically/code) way to connect wires from the CT in your main panel load center....to the meters located outside of the load center? For clarity.. my load center/main panel is mounted flush to drywall in my garage...and there is a removable section of wall immediately below my panel where I can locate the 2 meters between studs. This removable wall section below the panel will be clearanced such that the face of the hard-mounted meters will show flush with the removable wall section. I presume Smurf tube or like kind connector is used for the larger ( 14 ga ?) wire that connects the breaker power supply Inside the load center....to the meters below......can the smaller CT wires be co-located with the power lines inside the Smurf tube?....or need they be separately run?....what's your suggestion?
@@TheWilferch Apparently OK to run the CT and power wires in the same conduit: www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=181101 I would use something like shielded, twisted pair cable for the 2 CTs to help keep those signals clear of the 120V power wires. For my split phase, whole house power meter I just run the CT wires outside the panel and then the meter plugs into an in-use receptacle below the panel (mine is outside the house).
@@The4Crawler ...thanks again for the info and for the quick response. Cheers.
Clear, concise, verbally-clear presentation.....thumbs up......
Much appreciated!
Wow, I don't know how I came across your video/channel just now but I recognized your pic from prob 20yrs ago when I had come across your website with 4x4 info (don't recall what it was) but there's no mistaking that mug lol Glad to see you're still around and still into the 1st gen 4runners.
Yep, still have the web page: www.4crawler.com/index.shtml and the 4Runner. Having to go through rebuilding a lot of little things in it to get it ready to hit the trails again.
@@The4Crawler that's the website, thanks! It still has the same look and feel :)
@@The4Crawler that's awesome that you are taking the time to get all the rebuilding stuff done!
Only use plastic fittings on the condensate. Trust me I learned the hard way 😂
Good point, I'm check the brass fitting every year or two. In 7 years use, it has discolored a bit: photos.app.goo.gl/GeTSn1FSgLHnA6pFA I do have a PVC hose barb fitting ready to replace the brass fitting if it does spring a leak.
@@The4Crawler it took mine about 12 years to eat through FYI. thanks for making the video!
@@troyhough Good information on the lifetime you got. I may swap out that fitting then before it rots out so it's still useable as a spare for the PVC fitting I have. Only issue I find with with plastic is it seems to like to crack after some years, so having a ready spare is a good
@@The4Crawler I don't think it will ever crack unless it's overtightened or there is unnecessary strain.
Hi Mr. R Brown, I thought the arm was supposed to be tight, not rotating around? I am trying to save my old idler arm; the arm is very tight, and not moving.
Is this with the original plastic or the bronze bushings? The plastic bushings seem to be set up very tight from the factory. Those bushings are somewhat sloppy and then deform to fit tight when compressed. With the bronze bushings, it's not required to set them up as tight since they are a precision fit. As long as there's no play up/down, they are good to go. If you installed the bronze bushings and they're tight on the idler arm shaft, it may be due to excess paint on it or a rough finish. Try sanding down the shaft until the bushings slide on without jamming.
@@The4Crawler. Thank you.
if you go to the climbing boulder directly on the side of the road heading up the lower canyon just after a bridge on the left and park , then hike across the road is a water fall and then left 100ish yards left to the big concrete graffiti box , there is a road that goes right up behind, it used to be a vineyard i heard through the vine , it used to go to the top but is overgrown but you can push through to some of those grassy road old areas , you could turn it into a loop hike
I'll have to check that out. Looking on the hill shade map, I can see those old roads. It looks like that is county park land on that side for quite a way up.
Great video! Does it reduce water pressure?
This unit is rated for up to 10 gallons/minute flow rate: www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000218507/ So as long as it's under that, likely not a lot of pressure drop. It's intended for whole house use, but I'm just using it for the tankless water heater and hot water piping.
Great video. Am in the process of cleaning my valves now. But I might just order new ones
That's how I did mine in the long run. Bought a new valve assembly to swap into the machine. Then I could take my time to open up and clean and test the old valves, which are now my spare set.
@@The4Crawler I think for me, it is the valve that you can open up. The metal slug (?) that should slide up when a magnet is applied, seems to be getting stuck - I could not open it yesterday, but I did manage to open it just now (the brass nut is soft, so I wasn’t going to force it last night). I don’t have quite the same brown residue, but there is scale present in the “tube”, on the slug, and some in the valve body that appeared to block the hole that the slug covered. Will update later after a few more hours soaking in vinegar
It turns out this area was likely an old Road House, popular with motorcycle riders, back in the 1960s, who were headed up the canyon road to ride on the dirt roads and trails up along Stevens Creek. Business likely fell off after the county acquired the land that became Upper Stevens Creek county park. Apparently the place closed up and eventually there was a fire that destroyed all but the stone foundations and walls. If anyone has any information about this old Road House, drop a comment here.
How far into the Stevens canyon does this trail start?
It's near the Grizzly Flat trail junction: ua-cam.com/video/SUIoMG5UkAU/v-deo.htmlsi=7G1_8zttjWgCxT2n
@@The4Crawler perfect. I’m going to look for it this week
Our Rheem unit, in our 2-person household, makes so little condensate that it evaporates out of a catch-bucket. No external drain is needed at this time. The condensate is alkaline (I tested it using 4 methods) - because our tap water is alkaline!
Yes, it's usually not a lot of condensate. Does your condensate drain come off of the side of the exhaust vent or does it come out of the bottom of the unit?
Hitting the 8 year anniversary on this UPS. It's still working, on the original battery even. Still reports about 8-10 minutes run time, depending on what's plugged into it. In that time, the unit has recorded 198 power events that it's had to respond to in some way or another. Had a few extended power outages and the NAS and PC have shut down when the UPS has signaled. It did take a few outages to get all the networking bits onto the UPS so that the network UPS message could be broadcast and received properly. I know have the UPS plugged into my Synology DS1816+ NAS and that's handling the network UPS server duties. I still have my old DS1315+ NAS that powers up daily as a HyperBackup server and that's also on the UPS.
So, are you using it with your Synology? Because that is exactly what I am planning on doing with this unit. Can you get 5+ minutes on an 8-bay with the CP1000PFCLCD you think?
I imagine it would run that long, depending on the power needs of your NAS. I'm now running mine with a 6 bay Synology w/ 4 drives plus my PC, monitor and networking gear. I have the UPS plugged into the Synology and then have that set up as a network UPS server to send a shutdown notice to the PC and that's been working well. I have the Synology go into Safe Mode after a few minutes on UPS power so it has time to shut everything down.
I got a set of left hand drill bit and they are amazing for removing busted screws, once they dig in enough to start cutting theres usually enough torque to break it loose and it saves using an extractor and if the heads broke and the screw threads arent tight they just come otu like a dream, great video! im going to have to open up the gear box on our ellis saw since its crunchy and has no lost all power.. thanks for the video!
I have a single left hand bit, but it was too big for this set screw. But yes, those things do work well.
The Table Mtn. Trail reopened in the spring of 2023. Upon further exploration and investigation, the little trail I found is an old MTB trail informally named "Tombstone". Folks would ride down from Charcoal Road, about 1/4 mi. up the trail. Then they had set up some of the cut stones into a series of "features" to ride on and then they headed do9wn the hill, likely on the old trail I used last Nov. when I first visited up here. Turns one the MTB folks had found this site about 10 years before the GeoCachers did.
Thank You Guys very much!! Just found this page. I had an aluminum driveshaft cut down and the shop cut it 1" too short! I just ordered one of y'all's 1" Ford 8.8 spacers. Gonna be perfect!
Great, glad to help. Spacer should go out this week. You're lucky, the last shaft I had built came out a bit over 1" too long. I couldn't even pry it into place with the slip yoke fully compressed! Took it back to the shop and they rebuilt it the proper length.
Do you make these for early model Mazda RX sevens
Sorry we don't make any for that model. But see below for a possible DIY option: www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml#On-lineOrdering
Check out 4:10 for how easy the dried Orange Seal Endurance sealant can be removed!
Nice video sir Quick question I have a AUG o2o transmission from a MK2 I want to install on my MK1 but I transfer the relay lever from my old MK1 transmission but doesn’t quite match the length of the two plastic ends levers Do you know if I need to use a MK2 lever or something I thought they were the same
I've never worked with the Mk2 relay lever itself, but some information on the Mk1 lever below: www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ShiftLinkageInstall.shtml#RelayLeverShim I think the Mk2 lever is set up a little different and the shift linkage rods are different lengths on the Mk2 transaxle, especially the forward selector rod is a lot shorter than the Mk1 rod.
Tried to paint over a little area and paint never would completely dry. Did you jave to wash concrete with a soap and water. Or pressure washer?
I show some of the cleaning process in part 8: ua-cam.com/video/frj2fXXALec/v-deo.htmlsi=JHwghm5C351wmNwY and part 9 of this video series. The description should have information on the products used.
This video was a collection of clips shot over a few months, so it jumps around a bit. The main point was to capture some of the issues related to converting from the flexible plastic side panels to a stiffer, flat sheet of plywood, as the bed sides are not a simple flat surface.
Pm me can you install do sola battery...
Fantastic I know I can sort mine out now thank you.
No problem 👍
Excellent demo helped me a lot, I am going to sort mine now.
Glad it helped
My issue is the right elbow is leaking where it attaches to the rest of the block. (Right where the pin is.) Is it possible just to replace that? Or is there ring inside where they are attached I could replace?doesn’t seem like I can just remove the elbow. Too cramped. Oddly, it still pulls a good shot but it’s leaking bad enough to saturate the bottom where the ground wire it.
Yes, there is an o-ring in that elbow, see photo 3 in the album below: photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
How often should I do this cleaning cycle? Making between 1-3 cups of coffee (milk beverages) a day, been using Breville Barista Pro for about month and a half.
I don't think there's a set schedule for this. I usually do it based upon how the grinder is working. As it gets plugged up the adjustment may need to keep being turned up or down more than normal or the volume of coffee out of the bottom seems to be less. In that case, it's likely the burrs getting loaded up with residue, in which case a simple cleaning (see other video on that in this playlist) is fine. But if the coffee coming out slows or stops, it's likely clogged below the burrs and then you need to open up the grinder and clean out the passage below.
@@The4Crawler well I've been talking good care of it& it's working great so I'll probably won't have to run a deep cleaning like this anytime soon;) Watched so much videos about this machine before and after I've bought it it's honestly insane
I just installed a MT50. The display keeps telling connecting.. that's it. How does it work then? How do I connect?
I've never run into that issue myself. Might try reconnecting the cable or try connecting the cable with the charge controller on and off and see if anything changes. If not, see if the Epever support folks have any ideas.